⚓ Port of Call: Roseau, Dominica
Today we arrived in Roseau, Dominica, an island that is dramatically mountainous, incredibly green, and very wet. Dominica is the youngest island in the Lesser Antilles, still actively shaped by geothermal and volcanic activity—something we experienced firsthand.
Heavy rain greeted us upon arrival, introducing us immediately to just how damp this island can be. Even the “dry” coastal areas receive about 75 inches of rain annually, while parts of the mountainous interior can see as much as 390 inches per year.
🚐 Into the Mountains of the “Nature Island”
We joined the Trafalgar Falls & Champagne Reef Snorkel Tour with Venture Ashore. Leaving the pier—where Grand Princess was docked—we drove through the relatively “flat” (a very relative term here) capital city of Roseau, before heading up into the mountains toward Morne Trois Pitons National Park.
Dominicans take great pride in protecting their natural surroundings and proudly refer to their home as the “Nature Island of the Caribbean.” This UNESCO World Heritage Site makes it easy to understand why. Deep canyons slice through rugged volcanic mountains as the road winds through dense tropical rainforest, offering views of the geological forces that continue to shape the island.
We were especially thankful for our skilled driver, who navigated the steep, narrow, and winding mountain roads with ease.
🌊 Trafalgar Falls: Papa and Mama
Our first stop was the iconic Trafalgar Falls. A short—but always wet—10‑minute walk through the forest led us to a viewing platform overlooking the twin waterfalls: the taller “Papa” Falls and its shorter companion, “Mama” Falls.
• Papa Falls originates from a mountain lake high above
• Mama Falls flows from the “Breakfast River”
Just below the falls, the two tributaries merge and continue on through Ti‑Tou Gorge as the Roseau River.
Prior to a landslide in 1995, hot springs and pools existed at the base of Papa Falls. Geothermal activity still warms the water here, making it noticeably cooler at Papa Falls compared to Mama Falls—a fascinating reminder of Dominica’s volcanic core.
Locals refer to the trail as a “stroll,” though that may be a bit misleading. While not overly difficult, the path is rocky, steep in places, and perpetually wet, so sturdy footwear is highly recommended.
🌋 Sulphur Springs and Volcanic Features
Back aboard the bus, we continued deeper into Morne Trois Pitons National Park, stopping briefly at a fumarole (sulphur spring) just off the roadside.
Here, sulphur gas bubbles up through pools of water and mud, releasing the unmistakable scent of volcanic activity. Locals claim the mineral‑rich mud and water have healing properties—but that remains happily unverified science.
🤿 Snorkeling Champagne Reef
Our final stop was Champagne Reef, where we geared up for a unique snorkeling experience. The reef gets its name from volcanic gases that escape through the seafloor, creating streams of bubbles that rise through the water like champagne.
From the rocky shore, our snorkel guide led us along the coast, where we spotted coral formations and tropical fish below. Soon we reached the bubbling vents, swimming among warm currents of escaping gas.
At one point, our guide captured some of the bubbling water in his hands and brought it to the surface so we could feel just how much warmer it was. According to local legend, simply running your hands through the water can shave ten years off your age—we’ll report back on that claim.
🌙 Evening Aboard Grand Princess
That evening, Grand Princess sailed away from Dominica. After dinner, we attended the Captain’s Circle Reception, where we learned that Captain John Foster, spending his final night aboard for this contract, is not only an experienced ship’s captain but also quite the comedian.
We caught part of the production show in the Princess Theater before retiring to our cabin, watching the lights of Martinique glow in the distance.
🌴 Up Next: Our Final Port – Barbados
Tomorrow marks our last port of call as we arrive in Bridgetown, Barbados, wrapping up our Southern Caribbean port visits.
